Food and Drink

Searching for the best martini in Perth

Caitlin Scott13 Oct '227 min read

Frisk martini

There’s something about a martini. Silky, transparent liquid in a delicately thin glass, the twist of zest or olive skewer proudly declaring the drink’s identity to the room. Part of the infamous nature of the martini must come from James Bond, with much debate around whether his signature style was in fact a proper martini. Just for the enjoyment of watching Bond aficionados squirm, I like to fall on the side that says ‘shaken not stirred’ actually waters down the alcohol and creates a cloudy, weakened drink. I’m an appreciator of the classic drink. I love the simple elegance of it. But you should know this now, I’m not an expert. And my gin-fuelled escapades through the streets of Perth are not a how-to guide. It’s just me, searching for the best martini in Perth.

Foxtrot Unicorn: A descent into a taxidermy-adorned dream

Like the beginning of any good mystery, it took some time to uncover my first stop. We stood on a quiet, dark St Georges Terrace, scanning the unyielding marble of nearby skyscrapers for secret doors. Finally, I found a makeshift wooden door with a note tacked to it, and on the other side, a stairway down into Foxtrot Unicorn.

In a warmly lit underground haven, strangely decorated with taxidermy, we found a table of pub-style bentwood chairs and inhaled the rich scent of grilling cheese. As the others perused the menu of toasties (or as the menu called them: jaffles) I walked up to the bar to order the first martini of my exploration. All of the bartenders were fittingly hipster, with moustaches and casual attire, and one man greeted me with a friendly smile. I asked for a martini, which sparked a satisfying discussion of which gin I should choose. For a classic martini, he recommended their house gin, Archie Rose, as it was quite good but not overly expensive.

With casual, expertly smooth movements, the bartender cooled a slim martini glass with a swirl of ice while gently stirring gin in a tall metal jug. He then rubbed a slice of lemon rind across the outside and the rim of the glass before pouring the drink and finishing it off with a puff of zest. As he didn’t ask me whether I preferred olives or a twist, it must be their default style. Apart from the slice of lemon rind sitting awkwardly on the lip of the glass, it was a beautiful drink. Subtle, velvety gin, the perfect flavour for a classic, easy-drinking martini.

Cost: $18

Bobeche: Down into the sleek and suave lair

Next, it was time for a bit of high society, the ultimate corporate after-work-drinks venue: Bobeche. Only a few minutes’ walk away from Foxtrot Unicorn, Bobeche was also underground - this time with a set of stairs outside a towering building, the sidewalk descending into darkness. It was all sleek metal features, button-backed leather couches, and raw concrete walls, with the room lit by retro tasselled lamps and candles.

I walked up to the bar and was greeted by a well-groomed bartender in a white shirt and black waistcoat. When I asked for a dry martini with gin, they asked what sort of gin and proceeded to walk me through their selection. I chose Aviation Gin as I had seen it featured in a martini on their menu. Once they had asked whether I preferred olives or lemon - which I appreciated - they began to make the drink with a measured and slightly performative style. A skewer of olives was placed in a glass of iced water, while they vigorously stirred vermouth, ice, and gin. A frosted martini glass was fetched from the fridge, the same style as Foxtrot Unicorn: small, with a curved bowl, almost like a port glass. This gin tasted slightly sharp, but the martini was enriched by the salty olives and I found it thoroughly enjoyable. The drink came with a little bowl for the olive pits, which was thoughtful, but kind of made the experience less sophisticated.

Cost: $23

Bobeche

Varnish on King: A gin amongst the whiskey

Completely by accident, I chose a whiskey bar as our next stop. With my formula of choosing highly rated Perth cocktail bars, it was the obvious next stop, and two martinis in, I failed to notice what its specialty was. As soon as we entered the cosy underground bar, we realised that Varnish on King takes its identity pretty seriously. The very colour palette of the venue was warm and whiskey themed: exposed red brick walls, dark leather booths, red-brown floorboards, and a wood-panelled ceiling. And behind the bar, a wall of golden whiskey bottles.

I was nervous ordering my gin martini at this place, but I shouldn’t have worried. The friendly, bearded bartender responded positively, and immediately asked if I wanted it dry or wet. He informed me that he would choose a good gin, as I obviously wasn’t looking for a cheap drink, and brought out an Archie Rose. With unwavering focus, he rubbed a classic martini glass with lemon and filled it with ice, then after stirring the gin and vermouth, he used one slice of lemon rind for a puff of flavour and one for garnish.

I noticed he used a dropper to add a mysterious clear liquid to the mix before pouring, and when asked, he said it was saline solution, which would create a better mouthfeel and cut some of the bitterness from the gin. And he was right, the salty liquid added the flavour usually gained from olives, while the lemon rind kept the drink fresh and mild. However, I did find that the saltiness lingered on my tongue for longer than usual.

Cost: $24

Varnish

399 Small Bar: The unassuming martini-making haven

On my second night of martini searching, we headed to Northbridge, to give the other side of the city a fair shot. And after a bit of a walk down William Street, we came to 399 Small Bar. It was the definition of unassuming: in a quiet, treed area of Northbridge, tucked in between a cute Vietnamese restaurant and a small supermarket. 399 was simple, cosy, and inviting, with a long wooden bar running along one wall and the other lined with faded fabric booths. There were various gaudy neon signs, quirky, mismatched pictures, and a collection of polaroids decorating the walls.

The enthusiastic Scottish bartender smiled brightly at me as I walked to the bar and asked her for a gin martini. Once she had asked the essential question: ‘what sort of gin?’ I asked what she would recommend, and her answer was the most detailed and passionate of my whole martini journey. She explained where the best gins had come from, going into their stories, describing the flavour notes, and detailing the differences in gin-making processes. In the end, she recommended her ‘third favourite gin in the world’, The Botanist. As she put the drink together with ease, we chatted about our love for dirty martinis and I learned that she had once managed a martini bar.

This martini came in a large, traditional martini glass, appropriately ice-cold, with a skewer of fat, tasty olives. It was an intensely botanical gin, yet light and smooth, and full of layered flavour. Perfect.

Cost: $22.10

399 Small Bar

Frisk. Small Bar: Bright, floral, and a wall of gin

Fittingly, the last stop was a gin bar. Worlds away from corporate chic, Frisk was bright and welcoming. The walls were decorated with paintings of tropical plants, a candle topped every table, and lush plants, disco balls, and multicoloured fairy lights hung from the ceiling. A young woman was tending the bar when I went up to order my martini. She asked which gin I would like but seemed a bit unsure of what to recommend and asked one of the other more experienced staff members for some tips. While waiting, I admired the shelves of glistening gin bottles behind the bar, wishing I had time to try them all.

As they were having a special 25% off deal on their most popular gin, Fords Gin, she used this one for my martini. I asked her to make it ‘dry with an olive’ and refused her offer of added brine. It was the usual method, ice, gin, and vermouth twirled in a jug with a long spoon, then poured into the chilled, modern martini glass I had seen everywhere. The skewer was a bit big for the glass (I ended up removing the olives and popping them straight into the drink) and the olives were filled - the sort you get on a charcuterie board - which I found strange. However, the gin was wonderful, subtle and smooth, with a lasting citrusy flavour. I’m no expert, but the cost became understandable after just one sip.

Cost: $22.50

Frisk. Small Bar (photo Sit+Stay Photography)

The verdict

I was assessing these venues not just on the taste of the martini, but on the entire experience. The interaction with the bartender, the questions they asked, the gin they recommended, and the general ambience of the place. And for me, the clear standout in all of these categories was 399 Small Bar. I loved the small-town bar feeling and the casual confidence the place seemed to have. Not to mention, the martini simply tasted the best. But of course, I didn’t have a negative experience at any of these venues and I encourage you to take your own exploration to discover what you think is the best martini in Perth.

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Searching for the best martini in Perth

Foxtrot Unicorn: A descent into a taxidermy-adorned dream

Bobeche: Down into the sleek and suave lair

Varnish on King: A gin amongst the whiskey

399 Small Bar: The unassuming martini-making haven

Frisk. Small Bar: Bright, floral, and a wall of gin

The verdict

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Searching for the best martini in Perth

Foxtrot Unicorn: A descent into a taxidermy-adorned dream

Bobeche: Down into the sleek and suave lair

Varnish on King: A gin amongst the whiskey

399 Small Bar: The unassuming martini-making haven

Frisk. Small Bar: Bright, floral, and a wall of gin

The verdict

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